Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week AW 2011/12: Jean Paul Gaultier

The last day of the Haute Couture Fashion Week in Paris brought a very exciting show: Jean Paul Gaultier and his russian ballet inspired couture collection. The designer drew inspiration not only from the russian ballet, but more intriguingly from the famous people surrounding this environment in its golden era in the first half of the 20th century. The show presented a mix of powerful women in leather coats or dresses ranging in style from the beginning of the last century to an edgier, more modern approach with Sasha Pivovarova's rocker style studded mini. The end of the show concentrated more on more delicate silhouettes in flowy floor-length sheer dresses mixed with fur appliques or feathers. Talking about feathers, this was a one of the main elements in Jean Paul Gaultier's collection, marking the link between the ballet theme and Swan Lake. Used to embellish the severe ballerina updos, to mark a tutu coming from underneath the garments or even for a bird of paradise inspired corset, feathers were everywhere. This was a truly modern couture show!

While this show can't be characterized as subtle in the same sense of the word as the Valentino or Givenchy shows, the element that unites the shows is clearly the impeccable workmanship. Though not as subtle as the other shows, Jean Paul Gaultier's details were both splendid and quite discreet still conserving the designer's showmanship. 

This collection also marked a first in the designer's career: his first haute couture menswear collection. Among other Gaultier regulars, supermodel Jon Kortajarena was one of the models presenting the fabulous menswear creations. The russian influences were embedded in each and every one of the designs, marking the influence of ballet impresario Serge Diaghilev and Rudolf Nureyev's band on the garments.

Among my favorite pieces are the dresses with feathered details - either on the shoulders or on the collar, the brown leather trench coat and the light jersey one, the magnificent pistachio fur knitted sweater paired with a floor-length grey silk skirt and the studded leather mini with a feather tutu worn by Sasha Pivovarova. 

Here is my selection of the most intriguing looks from the runway. Which one is your favorite?

Jean Paul Gaultier and French singer Mylene Farmer

Photos: Vogue.fr