Paris Fashion Week AW 2014: Lanvin

Friday, 28 February 2014

Lanvin is always one of my favorite shows in Paris, that's why I'm always excited that Alber Elbaz's collection is one of the first ones I see during Fashion Week in Paris. His collection is stunningly dual as always, romantic, but also tough, over the top and practical at the same time. He is one of those designers that make us dream and exclaim in awe as his collection is unveiled, "Fashion should be a factory of dreams. It's time to go back to intuition. We need to be touched."

I was indeed touched by all the fabulous wool and fur coats, the spiral-cut tweeds, the "Angelina Jolie's leg" moment, the asymmetric black wool dress, the chocolate brown and black sleeveless fur coat, the perfectly fitted olive trench coat, the beaded midnight blue satin dress, the black leather knee-length pleated dresses, the two skirt-suits with wool panels on the front, the black and white floral knee-length flare dress,  and of course the black mini-dress towards the end of the show. Here is my selection of the most interesting looks from the runway:

Paris Fashion Week AW 2014: Balmain

After Milan always comes Paris and the last Fashion Week of the season. The first show to catch my eye here was Olivier Rousteing's collection for Balmain. Focused on a mix of ethnicity, hip-hop pop and street style, the collection was in tune with the designer's heritage and identity as a young, black, French designer. His spontaneous speech on stage describing the collection was very emotional "I'm screaming it loud. It's all about ethnicity and freedom. I am 28 years old. I'm proud of having Rihanna as my friend. I'm proud of having all those girls of different cultures modelling for me. Sometimes, it's not necessary to go to Miami or Vegas, or the fifties or sixties for inspiration - you can just look around you. I'm showing that this is me. I'm part of my generation."

Very much inspired from what's happening on the streets, the sound track for the show was perfectly in tune with his vision, a mix of nineties and current music. The 50 Cent remix by Timbaland and Justin Timberlake was doubled by the first model taking the catwalk in a khaki oversize leather jacket paired with satin trousers and gold hoop earrings. His looks are seem very tough and modern, perfect to bring out the powerful woman in you. Among my favorite looks were the green pleated dress in the opening photo, the green skirt paired with  a black leather blouse, the fur mini-skirt paired with a black embroidered top, the red leather dress, the teal dress paired with a red belt and cuffs, the pleated khaki leather skirt paired with a black top, the zebra-printed skirt paired with a white sweater, the striped black and white dress and sweater, the electric blue and yellow dress and pantsuit, the animal print skirt paired with a fur top and of course the yellow dress towards the end of the show.

Milan Fashion Week AW 2014: Emilio Pucci

Thursday, 27 February 2014

Inspired by Native American and Inuit prints and fabrics with a dash of seventies American Hustle suits, Peter Dundas presented yet another fabulously sexy show in which cowhides, ponchos, blankets and furs were very coherently mixed with silver studs and vintage Pucci prints. Flesh is always on display where Peter Dundas is involved, but the designer always manages to keep it elegant through the quality of the fabrics he uses and the impeccable fit.

Among my favorite looks are the green and brown fur-lined coats paired with straight above-the-knee dresses, the colorful mini-dresses, the brown leather jacket with wide white fur lapels, the two white sweaters with fringes on the sleeves paired with brown leather trousers, the sheer blouse paired with high-waisted green leather trousers, the cowhide mini-dress, the yellow gown, the dresses with vintage Pucci prints and of course the skin-colored wonderfully crafted dresses that ended the show. Here's my selection of the most interesting looks from the runway:

Milan Fashion Week AW 2014: Roberto Cavalli

Roberto Cavalli managed to create a very hot atmosphere at his runway show, not only through his hypnotic sexy dresses, but also literally, as the circular runway was lined with a ring of fire casting rich red and amber shadows on the garments. The show focused in the beginning on outerwear with a lot of tweed, python and mink coats and continuing with a couple of staggering oversize blanket-style capes. The end of the show was reserved for twenties- and thirties inspired flapper dresses embellished with fringes, feathers, crystals and even fur inserts.

I usually go for Cavalli's dark aesthetic, so this time it couldn't be otherwise. I really liked the collection and I can easily picture myself in these brooding looks. Among my favorite garments were the dusty cream flapper dress in the opening photo, the tweed and mink coats, the oversize blanket-like capes, the black and white flapper dresses, the flower-embellished pant- and skirt-suits, the black and cobalt embroidered dress, the black and red degrade dress and of course the grey mini flapper dress paired with a fur collar. Here is my selection of the most interesting looks from the runway:

Milan Fashion Week AW 2014: Giorgio Armani

Wednesday, 26 February 2014

Giorgio Armani proved yet again that he is a master of elegance with this tailored collection that he presented on Monday evening in Milan. This time his suits didn't have that powerful, glacial harshness about them, there was an elegant, yet very relaxed feeling in the garments. The pleated trousers ending right above the ankle were paired with soft cropped jackets and the predominant grey shades were sweetened from time to time with tones of pale green and yellow.

Among my favorite looks were the first few grey pantsuits, the grey dress paired with a blazer, the dark grey coat with oversize pockets, the grey dress paired with a light yellow vest, the two black and green column dresses, the silver gowns and of course the green chiffon floor-length skirt paired with a green and black bejeweled vest. Here's my selection of the best looks from the runway:

Milan Fashion Week AW 2014: Dolce & Gabbana

Dolce & Gabbana presented once again a show deeply rooted into the traditions of the designers' native Sicily. This collection was inspired by medieval fairy tales issued from the fact that the island was once ruled by French invaders bringing Catholicism, castles and chivalric codes with them. The scene was set in an imaginary forest and the garments were adorned with recurring motifs inspired by illustrations of knights and ladies and flowers and animals that can be find on old medieval manuscripts. The beautifully crafted garments were only matched by the elaborate armour-inspired accessories completing the looks: from soft chain-mail hoods and bejeweled gauntlets and gloves up to the flat pointy page-boy flats and boots. As for the details on the clothes, the myriad of playful, naïve motifs was like a breath of fresh air - appliqué squirrels, owls, hedgehogs, foxes, birds and trees, one could even catch a glimpse of what would look like Little Red Riding Hood!

Special adornments aside, the House still remains true to its aesthetic and beneath all the glitz and playfulness of this collection we can always see the classic curvy knee-length dresses  that draws women of all ages towards the brand. It's as difficult to pick any favorites as it was to edit the photos from the show, so I'll just name a few, such as the floor-length gown in the opening photo, the green cape with foxes, the grey wool dress with black velvet embroidery, the brown dress with the recurring key and floral motifs, the blue dress with appliqué owls, the indigo coat with fur pockets and hood, the red coat with squirrels, the yellow knee-length dress and of course the fabulous black dress with a square neckline. Have a look at my selection of the most interesting looks from the runway:

Milan Fashion Week AW 2014: Versace

Sunday, 23 February 2014

The Versace collection came as a whirlwind of colors and army-inspired touches on Friday evening. The collection presented relaxed looks alongside with the classic form-fitted micro-short embroidered dresses that can transform anyone into the queen of the night. What inspired Donatella in her golden epaulets and the lines of metallic frogging on the asymmetrical dresses was her brother Gianni's custom of collecting vintage military uniforms and medals. On the other hand, the more relaxed looks were still recognizably sensual, due to the light fabrics and the way the garments seemed to float with every step. In creating these looks, the designer wanted "something less fitted, more sensual and linear. And I found that through bias-cutting."
The accessories were standing out on their own, from the intricate suede stiletto boots in bright colors paired with matching elaborately designed bags up to the heavy necklaces and golden cuffs with the logo of the House printed on them. Among my favorite looks are the fabulous red fur coat in the opening photo, the asymmetric red dress, the teal and red dress with cutout in the front, the black and blue fur coat, the black mini-skirt pared with a black blouse with golden epaulets, the belted red coat with leather sleeves, the fitted black dresses and of course the embroidered mini-skirts towards the end of the show. Here is my selection of the best looks on the runway (yes, editing was difficult!):

Milan Fashion Week AW 2014: Prada

Saturday, 22 February 2014

The second day of shows in Milan continued with oversized coats with fur trimmings and thirties and seventies inspired dresses at the Prada show. Delving for inspiration in the post-war German avant-garde, the designer was inspired by "people and their emotions". The Art Deco prints were paired with narrow silk scarves and there was a pleasant contrast between the sheer organza dresses and the rugged oversized coats.

Among my favorite looks from the runway are the dress in the opening photo, the black and navy dress paired with a bright red silk scarf, the simple red dress, the Art Deco organza dresses, the purple and yellow dress worn by Ginta Lapina. An intriguing piece was the bright red fur dress. I'm still debating with myself whether I like it or it's too strange! What do you think? Here's my selection of the most interesting looks from the runway:

Milan Fashion Week AW 2014: Alberta Ferretti

Friday, 21 February 2014

The first day of shows in Milan ended with the Alberta Ferretti show. Following the change in aesthetic at Gucci from dark and sultry to pastel colors and quiet daytime looks, the least I expected was another change at Alberta Ferretti! This time it's the opposite - the designer known for her airy, feminine dresses turned darker with this collection inspired by different processes of nature. The sound track "I am a Tree" by Mother Gong and Daevid Allen set the mood for the show, in which the fabrics mimicked moss growing over tree bark, underwater algae or seaweed. The legendary workmanship of the House was yet again astonishing, as mohair threaded with golden filaments or boiled wool with leather inserts were used to shape the dresses and bell skirts.

A lot of different elements came together in the creation of this collection, one can see the elements of nature, alongside feather dresses and thick embroideries depicting birds. The styling was in line with the fabrics used, many of the models strutting the runway in thick wool socks paired with sandals. Towards the end of the show the designer couldn't resist and added a few of her sublime frocks. Among my favorite pieces were the brown wool dress paired with an orange handbag, the oversize green and brown mohair sweaters, the knee-length green lace dress, the two oversized green wool coats, the bright orange dress, the brown and gold dress and of course the gowns towards the end of the show. Have a look at my selection of the most interesting pieces on the runway:

Milan Fashion Week AW 2014: Gucci

Thursday, 20 February 2014

Milan Fashion Week kicked off with an unusual Gucci show yesterday afternoon. Gone were the days of low lighting and that feeling of an after midnight party, this time the atmosphere was as bright as daylight. The collection followed the mood of the venue and instead of the dark and glamorous looks we were used to seeing in the Gucci shows, the designer Frida Giannini turned this time towards daytime looks in dusty pastels, animal print and block heels instead of stilettos.

Inspired by the House's own legacy in the sixties, the collection brought a modern spirit into the garments through the dusty pink, green and blue shades. I must admit that I wasn't aboard this change in the beginning, it just seemed too odd to see such a toned down show, but looking at the photos a second time there are certainly a lot of pieces that stand out. Among my favorites are the pink coat with a leather panel on the front, the blue leather dress with frills, the double-breasted wool coats, the green dress paired with dark brown boots, the pink fur sweater, the yellow dress with leather inserts and of course the black and white dresses towards the end of the show. Have a look at my selection of the most interesting looks from the show:

London Fashion Week AW 2014: Burberry Prorsum

Wednesday, 19 February 2014

Milan Fashion Week just started today with the Gucci and Alberta Ferreti shows, but before that I couldn't leave out the fabulous Burberry Prorsum show in London. While designing the collection, Christopher Bailey was looking to give his garments "more soul" and break free from everything digital for a moment. Thus, the collection was hand-painted in his studio to give it, as the designer himself describes, "a welcome flavor of the domestic, the cozy, the romantic, and the very special." 

I really enjoyed the light fabrics, the colorful dresses and scarves and the hand-painted patterns. Among my favorite looks were the contrasting looks with a delicate dress pared with a solid jacket or blanket throws, the first three long-sleeved dresses, the turquoise dress paired with a blue and yellow scarf and of course the delicate lace dresses towards the end of the show. Have a look for yourselves and pick your favorites!

Happy Valentine's Day!

Friday, 14 February 2014

I'm sure most of you are already in holiday mood with all the romantic music playing on the radio and all the hearts spread around all over the town. Even some of the restaurants and cafes have embraced the general celebration of love happening today. On this happy note, I would like to wish you a very Happy Valentine's Day through a wonderful video that some of you may already know: Paperman, a short story about the suddenness of falling in love and why it's worth it to overcome all obstacles to be with your loved one.

And for all the guys out there: don't forget about Valentine's Day! It might be pretty dangerous if you do...

Have a lovely day!

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